Six “do’s and don’ts” with Electric fencing

  • Do place ground rods in permanently damp ground. About 95 percent of all electric fence problems are due to poor grounding.
  • Don’t use an energiser that isn’t EU approved. EU approved energisers are certified safe for both horses and for people.
  • Do check woven horse tape fencing regularly — wind flutter can break the wire conductors making the electric fence ineffective. Large diameter, braided electric rope is visible, strong, and durable, and suitable for use as a permanent perimeter fence. Lasts longer than, and cheaper than Tape.
  • Do install an earth return fencing system in dry climates or very sandy soil is in your area.
  • Don’t plan your fence line to run through places where your horses habitually roll.
  • Do check your fence voltage regularly with a voltmeter. Ensure the voltage is between 5,000 and 9,000 volts.

 

About admin

Agrisellex association with Electric fencing began 31 years ago in Central Africa where electric fencing was used to assist farmers, wildlife conservation entrepreneurs to control all aspects of African wildlife. We moved to the UK in 2000 and have become involved in all aspects of English Electric Fencing over these 13 years. Agrisellex has a long association with horizont Agrartechnik gmbh. This German company has been producing Electric fencing products for 60 years and is synonymous with German quality. Find us on Google+
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3 Responses to Six “do’s and don’ts” with Electric fencing

  1. Amy Allmond says:

    I have a 5-mile solar panel box correctly grounded and currently running 17 guage wire both a top and bottom strand for horses and goats in approx. 2 acres. I am going to be adding an additional acre or so to the distance. My question is, if I want to make sure I have enough juice to reach, would going to a 14g and ‘by the way’ correcting my splices improve the output? thank you, Amy

    • admin says:

      Hi Amy,
      2 strands on a 2 acre plot is about 1000m(1100 yards) Another 1 acre will add about 550 yards to the length of the wire to be fenced. I had to Google “Guage” to find out what it is so a 17 guage wire is about 1mm and that is very thin. The thinnest i have used is 1.6mm. that equates to about a 14g. In the light of that I would go to the thicker wire to improve conductivity. Saying that you have plenty of spare capacity on your energiser/fencer/charger. Of probably greater importance is the splicing and the earth post. When you’ve got it up and running, disconnect the energiser from the fence and measure the voltage directly between the terminals. This gives you the output voltage of the energiser. Anything under 6000v is inadequate. Reconnect the fence and measure on the fence. If all is well it will drop about 20% on a decently manufactured unit, any more than that then you need to find the problem.
      Good luck.

      • Amy Allmond says:

        Ok all was well for a couple of months, I think. anyways I was advised to add some ground rods along the way. The impression I got was to connect the ground rod to the fence itself, not the hot wire (which makes no sense to me). I went from 6-7000 volts (originally) to 600 volts. Since then I have disconnected the ground rods and replaced my splices. Whenever I disconnect the box from the fence I get full output, so I know it’s not the box (battery replaced a couple of months ago). Quite frustrating

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